Many years ago, I bought my first quality watch, a Movado Moderna.
It was the year 2000, and I knew nothing at all about watches, but I
had admired the sleek, modern design of the single-dot Musuem Watch for a
very long time, and I wanted one. Movado was
founded in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland in 1881. It is now part of
the Movado Group, Inc., an American company which also includes Ebel,
Concord, and ESQ by Movado, as well as several fashion-label brands. The
watches are still made in Switzerland, but those produced before 2000,
like mine, have "Movado Swiss Quartz" printed on the dial, rather than
the "Movado Swiss Made" of later production. Movado
does not list the manufacturer, but based on the configuration and part
number, mine appears to be the 7 jewel ETA 956.102.
The
Moderna features the classic single dot Museum Watch face created in
1947 by Nathan George Horwitt. This design, originally gold with slim
pencil hands, is a staple of the Movado line and has been reinterpreted
in numerous variations. I chose the polished stainless steel case model
over the traditional gold as my skin reacts to gold plating like it was
made of wasp venom and battery acid. My Moderna has a glossy black dial
with the trademark polished concave disk at 12:00, a detail echoed on
the buckle. It has polished dauphine hands and no second hand.
The case is quite small and vanishingly thin, measuring only 31mm in
diameter and 6mm thick. Readability and accuracy are excellent - or at
least as excellent as you can discern from a dial with no markers. The
Movado is less about split second timekeeping and more about "is it
cocktail time?" Water resistance is listed at 30m, which is hardly
dive-worthy but more than sufficient for a dress watch. The lugs are
comparatively long and flat compared to the case, but are partially
hooded with the slim leather strap tucked inside. A flat sapphire
crystal protects. When I compare the hairline scratches on the case to
the perfectly clean crystal, I can appreciate the hardness of sapphire.
Its small size is perfectly appropriate for my 6.5" wrist, but could
look like a child's watch on wrists larger than 7". The thick wristed
would be better served by the 40mm Museum Watch.
Unlike many of my pre-watch nerd acquisitions, it is a quality piece
that has seen a great deal of wear and earned a permanent place in my
collection. It is first and foremost, a dress watch. For many years it
was my daily timepiece for the office. It is now the watch I grab when
dressing for a black tie event. (Yes, even the Bum likes to get out now
and then.) I recall designer Alan Flusser's advice in the essential
menswear guide, Clothes and the Man. "Simplicity should govern
the choice of jewelry for formal wear" he wrote. "If you choose to wear a
wristwatch, remember that the thinner the watch, the more tasteful it
is. Black bands are recommended." In a world of bejeweled wrist clocks,
these are words worth remembering. As for those who insist on wearing
your Rolex Submariners with your tuxedo, I remind you of three things:
1) you are not James Bond, 2) Bond wore his Sub with a white dinner
jacket - under a wetsuit, and 3) if you can swing the Rolex, you can
also afford a proper dress watch, like this maybe. I'm just saying.
The Moderna certainly fits the bill for simplicity, slimness, and good
taste. It is discreet and unobtrusive, but still distinctive with its
iconic single dot dial. It is a watch that has served me well for many
years, and yet... Well, let's just say that after many years together,
it was time to spice things up. My watch collection has grown
considerably since I got the Movado, and it had been getting less and
less use. A strap change was in order, but I needed one that would fit
under those lugs, and that would be a departure from the customary thin
dress strap. A friend owns a more recent Movado on quilted fabric, and I
liked the contrast between the sparse dial and textured strap. I wanted
to push that idea a bit farther, so I went with army green canvas.
I know, I know, it sounds horrible, but just look at it!
The juxtaposition of the formal watch head and rough hewn strap just
works. Obviously, I am never going to wear this combination with formal
attire, but I am not above pairing it with a tan summer suit and a crisp
white shirt. It draws the right sort of attention without shouting its
presence. My strap came off a Sea-Gull 1963, but there are other options
out there. Crown & Buckle offers the well-tailored canvas Phalanx
in olive, black, and beige, any of which would offset a black dialed
dress watch in an attractive and intriguing way.
The Movado Moderna retails for about $500. Your investment gets you a
well tailored dress watch that you can easily wear to the office, with
black tie, and with a creative strap change will get you into the
weekend as well, provided you keep things clean and dry, of course. The
price is a bit steep but not unreasonable. It is also one of the most
affordable examples of the Horwitt dot design. There are other, less
expensive watches that fit the criteria of matching a clean, modern
design with a slim case. The $191 Christopher Ward Malvern MK II springs
to mind, as does the $355 Uniform Wares 152. Both are attractive and
attainable watches, but for those who crave the dot, only the Movado
will do.
Pro: Slim and elegant
Con: May be too small for some.
Sum: A quality watch, and iconic design.
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